My sister-in-law and I took a road trip down to Zion National Park. After completing one of the most challenging hikes of my life and a weekend in nature, I was left with different perspective on everything.
In desperate need to get out of the concrete jungle, I messaged my sister-in-law and we decided to do a weekend trip to Zion. Luckily, she and my brother are one of those cute outdoorsy couples that take their two kids to state and national parks on the weekends. So, whereas I'm the city slicker, I felt pretty good that I was in good hands and that this trip would take not a lot of planning (from my side).
I flew into SLC on a Thursday night so I could hug and kiss my niece and nephew before we headed out Friday morning. We spent two nights down in Zion and I took one of the most breathtaking hikes of my life. Where next time, I'd spend an additional 1-2 nights, this was a great starter #trip for #Zion and some helpful tips for anyone wanting to see Zion and then move on to see Bryce, Canyonlands, Arches, or any of the other National Parks in Utah.
Two Days in Zion (and a drive-by of Bryce)
Let me preface this with, we crammed so much into a small amount of time. WHEN I go back, I will spread it out a little bit more. Because Utah received so much rain/snow this year, the Narrows and Bryce Canyon hikes (which normally are open by May) were still not open. So we decided to do a big focus on Zion hikes.
We added 90s hits to our playlist and made our way from SLC down to Zion. About an hour away from Zion, we decided to stop at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center. We knew we weren't going to get to Zion today, so we hiked the Timber Creek Overlook trail. It's a 1-mile hike with great views of the valley. Forewarning: since I live at sea-level in NYC, I was huffing and puffing because there is a definite change in elevation, which I was glad I got out a little bit before the huge huffing and puffing the next day in Zion. Drink lots of water to avoid any headaches! The view was beautiful and got us really excited for the rest of our trip.
Friday night, we got settled at Zion River Resort , had dinner and beers at Oscar's in Springdale, and got ready for our hike on Saturday. It's been a long time since I've slept in a bunk bed, but it was fun to stay in a small cabin and talk to other nature enthusiasts.
Saturday morning, we woke up around 5:30 to get a headstart on Angel's Landing. By the time we stopped off for coffee and a smoothie at Deep Creek Coffee Company, we got to the visitor center by 7am. With sunblock applied, hippie bandana on, Raybans ready, we were ready to start our day. The tram ride is efficient while winding past each of the stops. We were heading to stop #6: The Grotto, the trailhead for Angel's Landing.
Each part of this 5+ mile hike gives some different viewpoint and challenge, all while leaving you feeling completely captivated looking at the beautiful layered rock. The first part is steep and strenuous as you make your way on the West Rim Trail. I huffed and puffed with my elevation change. Luckily, there is a lot of places to stop for water or catching your breath. Next is the Refrigerator Canyon, where temperatures are cool, and then proceed to one of the most physically grueling part of the hike- Walter's Wiggles, a combination of steep (and numerous switchbacks). By now, endorphins have kicked in and I'm ready to see what other surprises nature has me on the other side of this trail. As you approach Scout's Lookout, you kind of think that the trail is over. You can continue up on the West Rim Trail or continue to Angel's Landing viewpoint.
With a look to my sister-in-law, she gives me a look of doubt "should we do this?". She has kids after all. Me? Well, I have a husband I love, but I'm here to do whatever this hike has in store for me. I am on a high after getting to this point and for me, there is no stopping. All you see is a chain on the side of the cliff that you are supposed to cling to. You can't even see where this hike is heading. Where I am not scared of heights, I am a logical person. This is a dangerous hike and quite honestly, I'm surprised you are even allowed to still do this! Hiking up the spine that at times is just 3-5' across at times can be a little scary; however, I was ridiculously calm up there. Perhaps, just the simple "don't look down" helped me. Because you could die, you take every step gingerly and carefully, ensuring you're not rushing or being reckless. You are also in the company of other people hiking this incredibly strange, wonderful, scary hike and it is wonderful! There is something about having to navigate other hikers ascending and descending the limb that you're somehow 'part of the club' now. Each time we'd get to a resting place we thought we were almost to the viewpoint. Nope. Keep going. Honestly, it took a lot longer than we thought, but the view was 100-percent worth it.
There was something spiritual and peaceful up on Angel's Landing. Some beautiful acknowledgment that you completed something significant. My sister-in-law said it restored her faith in people. I saw that we're all so small in this Universe. So after taking a bunch of selfies, cheersing our Breakfast Bro-ritos, and drinking a lot of water, we descended back down. Hiking down was much easier, but probably more testing on patience. I'm so thankful we got up early, because as we descended down, it looked like a parking lot going up the Landing. That wouldn't have been nearly as fun, peaceful, or enjoyable. You have to wait and be patient, all while navigating who gets to hold the chain. With anything, there are good, considerate people and then at times you interact with some people on the trail who try to kill your vibe. Just move along.
After completing Angels' Landing, we went back to Scouts Lookout and continued up another 1/2 mile to the West Rim Trail to get a nice view of the whole valley (including Angel's Landing) where we could see the hike. At this point, it's around 11am, and Angels Landing has so many people on it, that they look like ants. I wouldn't have done the hike with that many people. It just wouldn't be fun. As we walked back down towards the trailhead we decided to grab lunch at Zion Lodge. None of the options looked terribly appealing, so we decided to have granola bars and a beer for lunch.
We proceeded on the shuttle to the Narrows hike. Where we couldn't actually do the narrows in the water because the water levels were too high, it was nice to walk along the river and get another viewpoint. And quite honestly, my legs were done, so this was a nice, leisurely stroll that was needed.
With every passing hour, our legs were getting tighter and tighter, but decided to do one final hike, to Weeping Rock. It is beautiful because the spring water drops off the rock like it is weeping. The water presents a welcomed break from the heat. Again, an insanely perfect lookout.
We ended our day with a spiked seltzer in the parking lot, changing into hippie sandals, and people watching. I ended that night on my pillow so thankful, so happy, so in peace, and wanting to get back as soon as I could.
On our way home to SLC on Sunday, we took our time, but decided to take a detour to Bryce Canyon National Park. We drove through the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel that is 1.1 miles and was completed in 1930. I cannot believe they were able to build this tunnel without modern engineering. It's one way, dark as hell, but so cool.
We got to Bryce Canyon National Park and because the elevation is higher than in Zion, there was still snow in some parts. So although we got to see the hoodoos and some of the beautiful rock formations, the hikes in the lower rim were closed. I'll definitely return! We instead took in the vistas where we could, took some amazing pictures, walked a bit around with our stiff legs, and then got in the car to head on home.
This was the perfect weekend away. I returned to my brothers' house, took a shower, played with my niece and nephew, and then head to the airport. Upon returning home, I bought my annual National Parks pass and have started planning to my next National Park.
Prepping for the Trip
I asked my sister-in-law all the annoying questions before the trip: "do I need a sleeping bag?" "do I need to bring my large backpacking pack?" "do I need my hiking boots?" She answered all of these 'no' as we were staying at Zion River Resort with beds and she usually does her hiking in running shoes. We drove down from SLC, but if you fly into LAS, it will be quicker. Here are the things that I found absolutely essential for our trip:
Proper hiking shorts. I bought longer, army green, unfashionable shorts from REI--- but I was so comfortable. No chub rub, all confidence when sliding on rocks, and not overheating. Those girls hiking in 90 degree weather daisy dukes with half their bum showing? No, thanks. https://www.rei.com/ #rei
Running Shoes versus Hiking Boots? I brought both, but only ended up using my Running Shoes. If I ended up doing the Narrows or another day of hiking with boulders, I would have used my boots. I found Angel's Landing and some of the hikes easier because my foot wasn't so rigid and could grip the rocks.
Bring: hat, sunglasses, sunscreen (not spray), sandals (for the shower). I also brought some benadryl because my allergies were kicking off with the cottonwood plants.
US National Parks Pass: my sis-in-law has her annual pass, which costs $85 and gets her and the people in her car (up to 4) in for free, otherwise depending on how you get in the park, you could be paying a lot more. I am going to Yosemite later this summer, so bought mine as soon as I got home.
Everyone must carry a hiking backpack with a camelback or hydration bladder. We bought mine for $30 at Costco, but you can find bigger packs at #REI or Backcountry. It was pretty hot, so we ended up refilling our backpacks at Zion Lodge later in the day.
Book lodging in advance (see below)
Drinks, snacks, and eeeeats. We decided that although we could have BBQ'd at our lodging, that we were going to stick exclusively to eating at restaurants. (see recommendations below). But we definitely had a whole Yeti cooler filled with water, beer, spiked seltzer for the weekend that we kept in the back of our car. Note: we had found our Yeti cooler at Homegoods, so sometimes you can find some great deals! We bought gallon jugs of water for our packs down in Springdale and bought a bunch of snacks that were good fuel during the day (Kind Bars, almonds, and all sorts of hippie stuff). Keeping the cooler in the car also allowed for a mini tail-gate post hike in the Welcome Center parking lot.
Be prepared to get up early: during peak schedule at Zion, you have to take the tram from the Welcome Center. It's a great system, but if you want to get in the park as early as possible, find parking at the Welcome Center, and get on Angel's Landing before it becomes a zoo, then get up early. We woke up at 5:30 and were to the parking lot by 7am and we still waited in a line for the tram. You'll also want to start early before the sun starts to beat down in the Valley.
Lodging
There are lots of options in Springdale, UT. Super posh and expensive options, cute little owner run B&Bs, and even the impressive Zion Lodge inside the park. We chose the Zion River Resort. It is a 15 minute drive outside the park and has lodging availability for RVs, camping sites, and a few cabins (what we did). It wasn't plush, but exactly what you want out of seeing a National Park- cute, clean cabins, access to showers and bathrooms, and a great porch for drinking post-hike drinks. We didn't end up using the pool or a lot of the resorts facilities, but it made us envious for all the RVs and their impressive cooking skills. Great value for money! We do recommend making reservations far in advance!
Eats
You can drive down on Zion Park Blvd. in Springdale and find lots of options for high-end and mid-range, pubs, ice cream shops, and cute cafes. You really can't go wrong
After our long drive on Friday, we wanted a beer and a laid back place to eat. We stopped by a few of the highly recommended places, but we just didn't feel like having a $35+ steak. We wanted something simple (read: burgers, tacos, or salads). And then we found Oscars, where we enjoyed a crisp pilsner and a burger. Completely satisfied.
To stock up on snacks and drinks, we stopped by Sol Foods. If you had a refrigerator or a kitchen at an airbnb, they have absolutely everything you need.
We went for breakfast at the same place everyday. Call us creates of habit, but when you find something that works, you stick with it. Deep Creek Coffee Company was the perfect start to our morning. It's a cute locals spot with great coffee and great food. We each got a coffee and a smoothie pre-hike, and then shared their Breakfast Bro-rito at the top of our hike. I'm from CA originally, so to have a yummy, quasi healthy breakfast burrito was heaven. We loved it so much, we even bought some swag to take home. Some other recommendations we received, but didn't go to were: Cafe Soleil (would be great for breakfast/lunch, casual), Bit & Spur Restaurant, King's Landing Bistro (a little fancier, but supposed to have a lovely view), and Meme's.
This gave me the National Parks bug. I hope if you're planning a trip to Zion, this helps and that we all enjoy nature. Always remember to #LeaveNoTrace.
#zion #nationalparks #optoutside #northface #patagonia #lululemon #brycecanyon #utah #hiking #backpacking
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